Vacant Church in Alabama


Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church, Pleasant Hill Alabama
Date added: September 21, 2023 Categories: Alabama Church Greek Revival

The 1851 Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church, also known as Mt. Carmel Cumberland Presbyterian Church, is an outstanding example of the vernacular Greek Revival style adapted to religious purposes. With its distyle in-antis temple front and austere classical details, the church reflects the popularity of the Greek Revival design even in remote provincial settings, and testifies to its dissemination in this prosperous plantation community during the antebellum period. There are several examples of Greek Revival design still surviving in and around the almost-vanished village of Pleasant Hill itself, including the Pleasant Hill Baptist Church (1850) which is directly across the road from the Presbyterian church; Belvoir (circa 1855), the Saffold house; and the Browning-Bender house (circa 1860). The earlier Underwood-Mayo house (circa 1845), although referencing Federal-period motifs in much of its detailing, anticipates these structures in its superimposed tetrastyle central portico, composed of heavy fluted Doric shafts above paneled piers. A Greek Revival style medical office, now moved to the grounds of Sturdivant Hall in nearby Selma, completes the ensemble of late neoclassical buildings related to Pleasant Hill.

The Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church building is a product of the cotton economy of antebellum Alabama. Built in 1851 with slave labor, it is an excellent example of traditional wood construction in the Greek Revival style.(Selma Chamber, 29) The refinement of style, quality of workmanship, and expense of building materials reflect the relative wealth and importance of the Pleasant Hill community in 1851. The presence and finishing of the slave gallery illuminates the public relationship between slaves and slave owners. Although a victim of the elements and vandalism, the building is an intact example of a rural antebellum church, recognizable to its date of construction, and retaining its original plan, siting, building materials, furniture, and finishes, except a metal roof and a set of concrete steps. Like other Presbyterian churches at nearby Adams Grove and Selma, the church at Pleasant Hill, originally called Mount Carmel, was a Cumberland Presbyterian church, and was reorganized as Presbyterian in the United States after the Civil War. The church at Pleasant Hill was the model for the Adams Grove Presbyterian Church, and whose building contract stipulates that it should be a copy of the Pleasant Hill church, excluding the tower.

The Pleasant Hill community is located in the Black Belt, some of the choicest land of the Creek Cession of 1814, and most politically and economically influential area of early Alabama. The Creek (or Muscogee) Indians in this area had traded with the British, and later the Americans, in Charleston for over a century along a route through Augusta, Georgia, the chief center of trade between the Creeks and Charleston. Europeans were not unknown in eighteenth-century Creek towns, where cotton production was developing on a small scale. The United States built the Federal Road in 1811 to connect Augusta and New Orleans, following the old trade route from Augusta. The road entered Alabama at Fort Mitchell (Columbus, GA), and led eastward to the headwaters of the Alabama River near modern Montgomery, before turning southeast to Fort Deposit, Burnt Corn, St. Stephens, and Fort Mims.

The Federal Road dramatically increased the flow of white settlers to modern Alabama from South Carolina, which in turn, precipitated the Creek Wars of 1813-14. Surveys of the land ceded by the Creeks to the United States in the 1814 Treaty of Fort Jackson (the result of the Creeks being forced to move out of their territory) began in 1816. The first public sales of the Creek Cession took place at Milledgeville, Georgia, in August 1817. The tracts sold were the fertile river bottom lands lying at the headwaters of the Alabama, where traffic on the Federal Road could connect to the river traffic from Mobile. Speculators, including William Wyatt Bibb, who would become Alabama's first governor, bought these lands. Montgomery was incorporated in 1819.

Bibb selected Cahawba in Dallas County as the site for the first permanent state capital and, in the summer of 1818, a new district land office was established there by United States Secretary of the Treasury, Alexander J. Dallas, for whom Dallas County had been named a few months earlier. Large tracts of fertile land along the Alabama River between Montgomery and Cahawba went on sale at the Cahawba land office in 1818, beginning a great flurry of sales, which slowed in January 1820. The land was quickly put into large-scale cotton production with the use of African slave labor.

The State Road that connected Montgomery and Cahawba ran through Dallas County along a ridge north of Pleasant Hill. Fort Rascal, located at modern Pleasant Hill, was the center of a primitive town that catered to the needs of planters and speculators, and was the site of a slave market. Pleasant Hill became a social center for those who bought land south of the Cahawba Road, and had an abundance of law offices, doctors' offices, and general stores. Influential personalities of Cahawba bought land for plantations in the area, including Alabama Supreme Court Justice Reuben Saffold, who settled near Pleasant Hill in 1820.

In 1818, James Moor, a planter from Tennessee, bought 160 acres (a quarter section) at the Cahawba land office. His purchase lay immediately east of Pleasant Hill in Section 30 of Township 14, Range 11. By 1823, James and his sons William and Lewis had, between them, bought an additional 320 acres in Section 30, and were leading figures in the community. On June 11, 1822, William Moor, hereafter "Moore," then bought 82.44 acres, the east half of the northeast quarter of Section 25, Township 14, Range 11, where the Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church now stands. The one acre of Lowndes County (established 1830) that forms the east part of the churchyard, was originally part of the 40 acres purchased by Roger Doolittle at Cahawba in 1836, but became a part of the church's property in 1851 with the new construction of the Presbyterian Church.

William Moore, titled "Reverend" on his grave marker, died at age forty, sometime in the 1830s; and it is assumed that his land in Section 25, the crossroads of the town, passed to his brother Lewis Moore. Lewis Moore sold lots from this parcel in the 1840s. He is credited with donating the land and slave labor to build the Presbyterian church in 1851, although the original deed cannot be found at the Dallas County Courthouse. Lewis Moore died in June 1854 and, along with William Moore and R. J. Bryan is buried in the yard of Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church. On May 14, 1851, seventy-four subscribers pledged $1569.50 for the building of a church at Mt. Carmel, the money to be paid when the building was finished. Lewis Moore pledged $400.00 of this, or approximately twenty-five percent of the total subscription.

There were Presbyterian missionaries in Alabama as early as 1817 and in the Pleasant Hill vicinity by 1825. There was a log Presbyterian church at Fort Rascal by 1834, which was replaced by the 1851 building. Until 1873, the church at Pleasant Hill was known as Mount Carmel and was affiliated with the Cumberland Synod. The Cumberland Movement, which originated in 1810 in southeast Kentucky, grew into a synod by 1813, and was strong in Tennessee, from whence the Moore family came to Alabama. The Cumberland churches were particularly suited to the American frontier due to their rejection of any central authority or government outside the individual congregations.

After the Civil War, attendance at the Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church was very low, with periods of inactivity. There are no existing minutes or records from the Mt. Carmel congregation period. The Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church was reorganized by the South Alabama Presbytery on June 28, 1873, with members bringing letters from neighboring Adams Grove, Hayneville Church, Lowndesboro Church, and Sandy Ridge Church. This transfer of membership suggests that there had been little activity at the Presbyterian church in Pleasant Hill since the war, although there were 300 inhabitants of Pleasant Hill in 1872. The founding elders of the reorganized church were Dr. Kenneth McKinnon and John G. McLean of the Adams Grove church. Church records show vacillating periods of activity from the reorganization of 1873, the last recorded meeting on March 27, 1927. Toward the end, as membership continued to dwindle, years would go by between reports as there were few religious or business meetings. After the church's closure in 1927, the building was used by the Baptists across the street, by the community for miscellaneous occasions, and also for funerals. The property reverted to the trustees in the late 1920s/early 1930s and over time, ended up in the hands of the Lewis family. The Pleasant Hill Cemetery Association was formed in the mid-1970s by the heirs and interested persons in the community to help maintain the cemetery grounds and keep an eye on the church.

Of at least 115 extant houses of worship in Alabama pre-dating 1865, seventy percent, over eighty of the total number, were erected between 1850 and the beginning of the Civil War in 1861. It was during these final "flush" years of the antebellum era that excess capital, combined with the emergence of most cotton-producing areas of the state from quasi-frontier conditions, induced one congregation after another to build or rebuild on an unprecedented scale. Admittedly, the resulting structures remained parochial in concept and modest in execution when viewed against a national backdrop. Yet the surviving churches of this era, together with residences, commercial and institutional buildings that were also put up as never before, mirror the first real florescence of Alabama's conservative, agrarian, and essentially monocultural society.

Most of these churches, especially the ones located in rural areas, continued to be plain, rectangular wooden structures to which ornament and even belfries and spires were added but sparingly. Yet this preference for austerity probably owed more to the resolute puritanism of most southern evangelicals, even wealthy ones, and to the traditional parsimony of all rural southerners with regard to most collective enterprises, as to limitations of means and available craftsmanship. To be sure, meetinghouses in the wealthiest plantation districts such as Dallas County (whose antebellum free white population enjoyed one of the highest per capita incomes in the South) tended to be larger and better built than those elsewhere throughout the state. Yet the difference was only one of degree. Simplicity of intent and execution prevailed as a conscious choice.

Within this context, the Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church ranks as one of the more imposing rural churches, standing or destroyed, of early Alabama. Both its exceptionally large scale and its cautious venture into "excess", namely, studied if austere architectural detail and an odd, three-stage domed belfry, raise it well above the typical Alabama church of its period. Unsurprisingly, given its time, its place, and its evangelical Protestant allegiance, the stylistic vocabulary is Greek Revival. Indeed, along with the 1854 Ivy Creek Methodist Church in Autauga County, Pleasant Hill may be arguably one of the state's two best remaining examples of the distyle-in-antis facade in a rural religious setting.

Equally as significant as its exterior treatment is the largely untouched, if much-dilapidated interior of the Pleasant Hill Church. It has been described as a "time capsule" in which pulpit area, pews, slave gallery, and choir loft survive intact, complete with oaken faux bois enriching pulpit, flanking lampstands, and paneled gallery front. Few if any Greek Revival-style religious interiors in Alabama have retained more of their original, albeit now-mutilated, fabric. The design of the interior spaces of the building is physical evidence of the public and social relationship of slaves and slave owners in 1851, a relationship of white paternalism. The slaves sat apart from their owners in the gallery at Mt. Carmel Presbyterian, and the distinction between owner and slave, white and black, was clearly maintained. The gallery has not been altered since it was built. It is significant to observe that the front of the gallery railing, seen by the white portion of the congregation, was beautifully and expensively paneled and painted. The back of the railing, the gallery floor and risers, and the stairs to the gallery, all seen only by slaves, are of the most basic construction and were never painted. The doors leading from the portico to the slave stairs have moulding and paint on the exterior side, seen by whites, but no moulding or paint on the interior side, seen only by slaves. The doors to the main floor, used by whites, are paneled and painted on both sides. The refinement of carpentry in the paneling of the doors, pulpit, ceiling, and balcony railing, in the windows and shutters, and in the hand-made interior and exterior mouldings indicates the presence of highly skilled woodworkers.

It is believed that slaves of Lewis Moore carried out much of the work building the church, which was a common practice at the time, but the original designer is unknown A general store, originally owned by Sommerville and Company, and later by the Harrell family, was built in 1850 across the road from where the Mt. Carmel church was built. Oral tradition is that it was constructed by a traveling master carpenter and a slave crew overseen by a black foreman. The same carpenter is believed to have built the Adams Grove Church (Cahaba vicinity, Dallas County). Adams Grove strongly resembles the Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church in its method of construction and external details, as does the Bethany Baptist Church in nearby Collirene. The Bethany Church was built in 1850 by a builder from South Carolina hired by Green Rives of Collirene. The builder brought two slave carpenters, Daniel and Smart, to Alabama. The Bethany Baptist Church was dedicated on May 4, 1851, ten days before the subscription of funds for the Mt. Carmel Church. Smart remained in the area as a slave of Green Rives, and became a member of the Bethany Church in 1851. Smart is credited with the carpentry for at least one other antebellum building in Collirene.

Building Description

Located in the heart of the Black Belt community of Pleasant Hill, the Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church, constructed in 1851, occupies one of the most prominent locations in the community. The church is a one-story Greek Revival style frame building. The building is set back a distance of 200 feet from County Road 12, and stands as a guardian between the highway and the Pleasant Hill community cemetery. The bell which once rang out from the cupola now rests on a brick foundation to the left of the front of the church. There are more than 140 grave markers that make up the cemetery situated around the building, with the earliest dating from the 1830s and the latest from the 1980s. Nineteenth-century iron railings define a few family plots. The churchyard of the Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church contains 8.3 acres, more or less, the east one acre of which lies in Lowndes County, and the remaining 7.39 acres of which lie in Dallas County. The churchyard is grassy and free of trees, except one large cedar which grows at the northwest corner of the building and the scraggly remains of foundation plantings.

The church rests on a series of hand-made brick piers which were arranged to visually support the decorative pilasters of the north, east, and west walls. One piece of green lattice remains at the front of the church, suggesting that at one time lattice filled the openings between footings all the way around the building. Hand-hewn beams measuring 11 inches square, more or less, sit directly on the footings around the perimeter. Another beam runs down the center of the building, while four more cross the building, east to west. Between the beams, oriented east to west, are hand-hewn joists, two inches by ten inches high, spaced 24 inches apart, more or less.

The front facade features a recessed portico measuring 24 feet wide and ten feet deep, with two columns in antis, flanked by two eight-foot bays which enclose stairs to the gallery inside. At each corner of the two bays, there are pilasters whose capitals resemble a variation of the Doric style. There are a pair of single-paneled double doors on the front facade leading from the portico into the sanctuary. The recessed portico is 24 feet wide by ten-feet deep. Its three walls have shiplap siding. It has a plank ceiling. Both the east and west walls have a single, two-panel door leading to stairs to the gallery and bell tower. The outside face of each door has panel moulding and is painted, while the inside face has no moulding or paint. There are eight concrete steps leading from the ground to the portico floor. A large wooden entablature runs across the entire length of the front facade and is divided into a three-step architrave, frieze, and simple cornice. The pedimented roof is topped by a bell tower and cupola.

The east and west facades are identical and divided into three bays 20 feet in width, separated by four tapered pilasters. Each side has five window openings. The center and south bays each have two window openings, while the north bay has only one, where it does not interfere with the internal gallery staircase. The wood windows have three sashes with twelve panes. Originally, louvered blinds hung outside to cover over the windows. There were four green louvered blinds per window. All shutters and sashes have been removed and stored to deter vandalism. The window openings are currently covered with plywood. The south facade, unseen from the road, has no pilasters or entablature and has clapboards all the way to the peak of the roof. There are four windows of the same dimensions as those on the east and west sides and, similarly, each has three sashes and four louvered blinds.

The bell tower is centered above the portico and rises about thirty-three feet above the entablature, or twenty-one feet, six inches above the roof peak. It is framed internally with hand-hewn timber. The tower has three stages. The first is nine feet square, and rises about three feet, five inches above the roof peak, including an entablature, which is two feet, five inches tall, more or less. It is covered with shiplap siding. The second stage is about six feet, three inches square, and eleven feet, two inches tall. There are louvered openings on each side, where the bell was. These openings have been filled with sheet metal and faced with louvered shutters, which do not fill the opening. This alteration was likely made when the bell was removed. At each corner are eight-foot tall tapered pilasters with Doric capitals. Above these is a three-foot-tall entablature. The third stage is a five-foot diameter drum, about two feet, ten inches tall, including cornice. It is sheathed in sheet metal, although further examination may prove the original existence of a ring of colonettes beneath the sheathing. The drum supports a hemispherical dome, originally covered with wood singles but, like the roof, now sheathed in metal. At the top of the dome, the tower is fifty-four feet, four inches tall, more or less, measured from the top of the brick footings.

On each side of the portico is an enclosed interior staircase leading to the gallery and bell tower. Intended for slave use, the stairs are utilitarian, lack moulding details, and are unpainted. There is a simple handrail. The stairs are about three feet, three inches across and the bottom four turn a corner around the post of the railing. Fourteen steps rise eleven feet, three inches to the gallery floor. The walls of the stairwell are white painted plaster and lath. There is a simple baseboard, and the ceiling is planked. A cast iron stove, used at one time to heat the church, is stored in the east stairwell.

The gallery is about seven feet, ten inches deep and runs along the east, north, and west walls. It is supported on one side by the walls and on the other by iron rods suspended from the roof trusses. Each side of the gallery has a two-level seating riser for pews or chairs. Each riser level is about two feet, eight inches deep. The solid wood railing rises 30 inches from the gallery floor. The front of the railing is about three feet, five inches high overall, is paneled and painted a soft grey-green. A wood ladder leads through the ceiling into the tower from the center back of the gallery.

The wood ceiling is attached to the trusses and joists above. It is composed of 13-inch wide panels and moulding, and painted soft grey-green. The walls are white painted plaster and lath. The ceiling under the gallery still has its lath, although the plaster has fallen. Simple 13-inch tall baseboards are painted dark faux marble. The window casements and trim are painted soft grey-green.

The interior sanctuary is arranged with two aisles running north to south beginning just inside the pair of entrances, and ending just short of the pulpit. Three rows of pews comprise the interior seating arrangement, with the longest pews located in the middle between the aisles, and the shorter pews located to the left and right of the aisles. The pulpit, with its symmetrical design, is elevated three steps above the floor of the main sanctuary. Stylistically, the pulpit is designed in a vernacular adaptation of the Tuscan order, and could be attributed to one proposed by Asher Benjamin in his pattern book The Architect or Practical House Carpenter (1830). The massing of the pulpit centers around a paneled podium, which is flanked by a pair of miniature columns that mimic the columns in antis on the front elevation.

Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church, Pleasant Hill Alabama

Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church, Pleasant Hill Alabama

Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church, Pleasant Hill Alabama

Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church, Pleasant Hill Alabama

Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church, Pleasant Hill Alabama

Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church, Pleasant Hill Alabama

Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church, Pleasant Hill Alabama

Pleasant Hill Presbyterian Church, Pleasant Hill Alabama